Visiting the Magdalena Lagoon, birthplace of Colombia’s most important river, means stepping into a remote, challenging, and deeply meaningful setting. This high-altitude lagoon, located between the departments of Huila and Cauca, marks the source of the Magdalena River—witness to the nation’s history since pre-Columbian times and inspiration for countless literary, musical, and artistic works. As described in Wade Davis’s book Magdalena: River of Dreams, the Magdalena is “the river that unites Colombia, an artery of memory and culture.” This expedition can begin in San Agustín or Popayán, and it’s also an excellent option to connect both destinations. You can do it as a hike, on horseback, or with a combination of both, with a recommended duration of 2 or 3 nights.
Along the way, you’ll stay in rural farms with basic conditions: no electricity, hot water, or internet connection. Dormitories are shared. However, this simplicity offers an authentic experience of Colombian countryside life, right where rural culture meets wild nature. The trails are demanding: expect lots of mud, long ascents, slippery stones, and swampy stretches. It’s important to bring rubber boots and be in good physical shape. In return, you’ll be rewarded with spectacular views of canyons, cliffs, ravines, and misty forests of ferns, palms, and mosses—until reaching the highland valleys of frailejones that announce the lagoon’s proximity. This hike is ideal for those seeking intense trekking, untouched nature, campesino culture, and remote landscapes. It can also be a transformative experience if you’re looking to disconnect completely and understand Colombia from its symbolic and geographic origins.